Friday 27 September 2024

The apparel oft proclaims the man

Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy,
But not expressed in fancy; rich, not gaudy,
For the apparel oft proclaims the man
. . . Polonius advises

Half a life-time ago, in advance of a career-changing interview, we went into Next in Newcastle upon Tyne and came out 45 minutes later with a woolmark charcoal gray double-breasted suit. I didn't get the job, but the suit has done me ever since for weddings, funerals, christenings and interviews. Being exactly average in size has made life easier for me to find things that fit. And being frankly Scarlett about the apparel details certainly helps.

One of the useful things I was taught in graduate school in Boston was that wearing a jacket and tie [a charcoal gray suit might be a teensy bit OTT in academia] for an interview shows that you care enough about the job to step over that very low bar! For all other public/formal events, not wearing a suit is making a statement and so making it more about you than the situation probably deserves. Exceptions made if you are, like, The Corpse: then it's your last chance to be the subject of gossip.

People have said that I brush up well. But that's largely about being average size, so my pants legs come to the shoe but no further. And I inherited a wide variety of ties from my Da (HMS Dolphin, Royal Engineers, Old Eton etc. to none of which he was 'entitled') and have picked up more snazzy designs as gifts along the way.

By coincidence, in the run up to my last jacket&tie outing - to #1 Grafton St! - I found myself listening to Sean Carroll, public intellectual, in conversation with Derek Guy, internet personality, about the Theory and Practice of Dressing Well. Guy has been in some twitter-spats about suitings; and blogs about apparel on Die, Workwear. I R old; I R The patriarchy; I had a very expensive education including a very old fashioned uniform - so I don't need advice about neckties and buttons. Most of that is about signalling status to people who care; like wearing a gold ring in your left (gay) or right (pirate) ear. eeee but I do have a lot an hour and a bit of time for an enthusiast.

I liked very much the two-sidedness of Derek Guy's coin. One side knows and cares about the difference between a four-in-hand and a half-windsor. The other is very emphatic that he/we should never judge someone's worth by their clothing. Chances are, you've been wrapping your neck in a four-in-hand since you were in national school without knowing the name, like M. Jourdain and prose. Nevertheless, Derek Guy's advice seems sound: if you dress to fit [your bod and the social surroundings] then you'll possibly feel less awkward and it will be easier for everyone to have a fun and/or productive time.

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