Showing posts sorted by relevance for query faeroes. Sort by date Show all posts
Showing posts sorted by relevance for query faeroes. Sort by date Show all posts

Friday, 27 November 2015

Isle of Birds, Isle of Norn

Fuglaey [Old norse] Fugløy [Nynorsk] Fughlaigh [Gaelic] are all alternative names for Foula, clearly the same root-word as fowl. Foula is a contender for the remotest permanently inhabited island in the Western European Archipelago. But I think most people would hand this doubtful honour to Fair Isle, a little further South and midway between Orkney and Shetland. For people Foula is down to about the numbers [N=30] living on St Kilda when that remoter outpost was evacuated in the 1930s but it's only 60km from the nearest Tesco in Lerwick [20km by ferry to Walls, 40km by winding and windy road to the metropolis]. Social services and infrastructure have moved on since then and I don't hear any rumours that Foulanders are going to give up anytime soon.  They used to be fisherfolk almost exclusively, but now are more crofters and there are far more sheep and ponies about than people. Contributing at least as much income is the servicing (B&B, guides, deer-stalker hat sales, binocular-hire, clothes-driers) of twitchers because the island is rather rich in bird-life which is hard to come by nearer the centres of population further South.  The island has been designated a Special Protection Area (SPA) for birds, as well as a National Scenic Area and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI).

Among the highlights are more puffins Fratercula arctica than you can shake a stick at and the world's largest colony of Stercorarius skua, the Great Skua or bonxie. Stercorarius parasiticus the Arctic Skua is also common hereabouts. Apparently the Anglophone word skua comes from Faroese skúvur, one of the very few English borrowings from that direction. Faroese is spoken further North by 65,000 people mostly in the Faeroes but 20,000 making a living in Denmark and elsewhere. That's almost as many people who speak Irish in Ireland. Faroese is descendant from Old Norse which was spoken by Vikings and written in runes when those people burst from the poor-scrabble farms and fjords in Scandinavia and sought a an easier life elsewhere. Old Norse evolved into Faroese but also Icelandic and Norn which last was spoken in the Norse fiefdoms of Orkney and Shetland for at least 500 years. The language started its slow decline just North of Scotland when Scots-speaking lairds were granted holdings and serfs on the islands and eventually these magnates stopped swearing allegiance to Denmark and started sending their dues South to Edinburgh.  As Scots, which I think is a language distinct from English, came to be spoken in Castle and Manse as the language of prestige, so Norn was spoken by fewer and humbler people. The same process swept Gaelic out of mainland Scotland in more or less the same time-frame. By the time scholars perked up to the existence of another language spoken by natives of the United Kingdom, Norn was gorn.  The last attested speaker claimed to by Walter Sutherland of Unst, and he died in 1850. It must not be confused with the somewhat jocular Norn Iron which is a phonetic pastiche of the language/accent spoken in Belfast.

Interestingly, to Norwegians Shetlanders sound like they are speaking Norwegian by their timbre and intonation until you get up close and find they are yakking in Scots with a Norse accent.  It's a bit like Richard Feynman being confused into thinking that two chaps on a plane conversing in Ladino were speaking Portuguese.  The other peculiarity of Foula is that they are still working on the Julian Calendar with Christmas celebrated when the rest of us have moved on to Epiphany / Twelfth Night / Nollaig na mBan. Whatever!: I don't think that makes much difference to anyone else.
I think I feel a Summer holiday coming on: rock-art, puffins, beach-combing Foula should be good for a tuthree days.

Sunday, 29 March 2020

Isolato sed communicando

Today it is 100 years since my mother was born. You cannot continue to claim birthdays after you've cashed in your chips. We had planned for a bit of a knees-up for the family this weekend, but the Old Lady died in January so we cancelled the booking. Actually, as you know, Covid-19 would have cancelled the booking on us anyway. We are making do with an 11-way family Zoom at 11am with instructions to bring cake.

 What else has been going on?
Ireland has a flattish curve but could do better [source where you can patch in your own location]:

Stay safe stay sane!

Saturday, 30 April 2016

Walking on water

The Given Note
On the most westerly Blasket
In a dry-stone hut
He got this air out of the night.
Seamus Heaney
The Blasket Islands (next parish Boston) are the most westerly extension of the Western European Archipelago - what we have to call the clatter of islands which the Brits and Irish (and a gallimaufry of every other nationality on Earth) call home.  Apart from being home to the fiddler tribbed in Heaney's poem [above and RTE] the Blaskets are also the most significant European nesting site, after the Faeroes, for  Hydrobates pelagicus the storm[y] petrel, Mother Carey's chickens, guairdeall [IE] stormvogeltje [NL]; stormsvala [SE]; Sturmschwalbe [DE]; pétrel tempête [FR]. This, the smallest of seabirds, is named in English for St Peter who, in a famous biblical story, tried to walk on water. Actually the name petrel is more likely an onomatopoeia for the pitterel-patterel they make when skimming the surface scarfing up small fish and crustaceans for dinner. Mother Carey?  may be a corruption of Madre Cara, the blessed virgin. Don't rush off to the Blaskets in hope of adding this bird to your twitcher's checklist because except for 12 weeks of the year, there is nobody home.  The birds return only to mate, lay one white egg, and raise the fledgling before they depart again for their storm-tossed wandering life at sea. They only survive on islands which are free of introduced cats and rats [not Kerguelen so]. When you weigh an ounce /25g, your surface to volume ratio is so adverse that you must keep eating all the time just to keep warm. But for the evidence of almost uncountable numbers of storm petrels, physiological ecologists would have to conclude that these tiny birds had been assigned to the dustbin of extinction.  But hey, there are worse ways of making a living than on a world cruise.

Nevertheless, living on the edge they can't handle really terrible weather and will fly for shelter when they feel a storm brewing. Since man left the safe confines of life on the land, stormvogeltjes have sheltered in the lee of ships and boats when the going gets rough. Mariners have long viewed them as heralds of the coming storm and will use their appearance as a cue to shorten sail and batten down the hatches.  But they will also, in the Neanderthal recesses of their minds, curse the bird for bringing the storm. And in the perverse logic of superstition it is bad luck to kill a storm petrel.

My more literate Russian readers will be hopping from one foot to the other waiting for me to mention Maxim Gorky's poem The Song of the Stormy Petrel which he wrote in 1901 in support of the Revolutionaries who were hoping, planning, plotting to overthrow the Tsar and create a socialist paradise out of Mother Russia. Wait no longer Comrades: Между тучами и морем гордо реет Буревестник, чёрной молнии подобный. which, being translated means: Between the clouds and the sea proudly soars the stormy petrel, as a streak of black lightning.  You can get the whole poem and an English translation here.  I must add that to my favourite poems about birds along with the Kingfisher Alcedo atthis and Dis al.

Gorky wasn't the only one to associate Hydrobates pelagicus with a troublesome harbinger of dramatic change. The storm at sea presaged by the petrel's appearance was a powerful metaphor for a political storm brought about by revolutionaries. Padraig Pearse and his cronies, in formenting their rising against 300 years of Tory misrule in 1916, also recognised the propaganda value of the small apparently insignificant bird that brought a huge storm in its wake.

100 years later, a trio of our friends-and-neighbours submitted a proposal to the GPO Witness History Public Art scheme called ‘Stormy Petrel/Guairdeall’.  As I said before, the centennial of 1916 got two bites at the cherry: once during Easter Week 2016 and again on the date Easter Week fell in 1916. What Alanna O’Kelly, Brian Hand and Orla Ryan wanted to do was recognise a small apparently insignificant group of women who played a key role in the boys' games that went down in flames and guns during April 1916 in Ireland Dublin.  I have amended the last sentence because the rising was essentially limited to the city centre of Dublin. A couple of handfuls of  women set off from Dublin with written and/or rote remembered orders for the local commanders to rise in support of the events that were about to unfold in the GPO in central Dublin. But they were comprehensively dismissed by the Men in charge in the provinces. Having delivered their messages, these doughty female patriots then had a far more difficult journey back to town . . . the shit having hit the fan and the British military on high alert.

How to celebrate the role of women in a long-ago-and-still-too-close rebellion which failed but which served as the catalyst for the foundation of a new state in 1921 just 5 years later?  O'Kelly, Hand and Ryan are from The Arts Block, so their tributes wasn't in the form of spreadsheets, pie-charts and data analysis.  It was more in the vein of evocation, allusion and empathy.  Not trying to document what happened but to show how the actions of Elizabeth O'Farrell, Eily O'Hanrahan Kitty O'Doherty and the rest impact on, and can inspire, our lives today.  The Stormy Petrel / Guairdeall collaboration is taking the revolution to Vietnam later in the year!  Because we are neighbours, we were invited to a performance of the 'living installation' in the courtyard of the GPO last Monday. We were warned that the performance would be running a) as soon as the audience entered the courtyard b) through and around the audience for about 25 minutes. An interesting experience; flat out obvious "he's beHIND you" pantomime, it was not.

At one point, a young woman starts running desperately through the crowd carrying a violin case. This evokes many things in different imaginations: given the violence of 1916, quite possibly an echo of the 1929 St Valentine's Day Massacre.  Not knowing the details and anecdotes of the journeys of Mother Pearse's chickens, I was probably missing a key reference. Would it be fair to say that Science tries to make things clearer but the Arts strives to make things more obscure?  ANNyway, just when things were getting tense with the relentless slapping run of the girl, her violin case burst open and the family silver spilled out on the ground with a tremendous clattering >!clang!<.  In the ringing silence that followed, the nearest performers got down on the ground and started, with infinite care and attention, to pick up the silverware and secrete it about their person. But here's the thing: none of the audience helped!  We were ALL institutionalised into believing that the girl's accident was 'out there'; in a far country; at another time; irrelevant to our cosy modern lives.

I take it from this that, if we learn anything from history, it is that we learn nothing from history.  The majority of citizens of Dublin in 1916 were mostly annoyed that their equanimity and privilege [Dublin was a long way from Flanders or Gallipoli] was being disturbed by Connolly and his Yahoos. The dispossessed of Dublin, of which there were teeming thousands in the tenements of the North Side, saw it as a heaven-sent opportunity for a little light looting. It wasn't until after bullets and the fires and the judicial executions, that people started to re-imagine the past with themselves in a heroic role.

Damn and blast it! if we cannot even pick up a silver fork to help a poor girl in a play, what are we going to do about a million refugees in Greece, or 6000 refugees in the Calais Jungle or the thousands of refugees currently lodged in unprocessed limbo in Ireland. "Pass the marmelade, darling" ???

Tuesday, 3 February 2015

Now you sea it

About 20 months ago, I was writing about one of the bizarre extensions to Spanish territory, Peñón de Vélez de la Gomera, which was an island off the coast of Africa and so had a tenuous claim to being separate from the dismemberment of Spain's African Empire.  Then in the modst of a torrential storm, in 1934, the narrow strait between El Peñón and the mainland was filled in and it became a little more difficult for Spain to defend its territory - morally or physically.

Poseidon lost a little territory that time, but today is the 190th anniversary of one of his gains. Denmark is a small and civilised country in Northern Europe joined to Germany but looking wistfully across the Skaggerak and Kattegat to Sweden and Norway. The three countries are divided by a common language that they affect to believe are different from each other. Earlier Blob-sniping at Danish. About 70% of Danish territory - we'll ignore the continent of Greenland [50x bigger than the mother-country] and (for now) the archipelago of The Faeroes - is made up of the Jylland/Jutland peninsula from which you can walk to Germany, and indeed Santiago, without getting wet feet. The other 30% is an interesting collection of at least 400 islands, 70 of which are inhabited by people - even if it is only a handful of people on some of the smaller/remoter specks of dryish land.  Only one person lives on each of Vorsø, Tærø, Dybsø and Saltholm. No prizes for guessing that the Danish for island is "ø". On the other hand nearly 2 million people (a third of all Danes) live on Zealand because it holds København, the national capital, in its palm.  Things are fairly unstable up there, rather like the situation in much of the Netherlands which loses a few towns and villages every century or so in a storm surge.The most recent such loss of Danish territory was Jordsand, one of the Wadden Sea Islands facing the full thump of the North Sea. It was 2,000 hectares [20 sq.km] in 1231, but by the end of that century was reduced to 40 ha; half of that was washed away in 1763; and the last fragment sank beneath the onslaught of a Hundred Year's Storm in December 1999.  A bit like the loss of Eilean-a-beithich in 1882

The second largest island is also Denmark's most recent.  Vendsyssel-Thy (4,700 sq.km) is the asymmetrical cap [R above : Vendsyssel, as indicated is the fat chunk to the East; Thy is the Western tail and they are joined by the Hanherrederne isthmus] that sits on the top of the country.  The last town at the very Northern tip is Skagen - giving its name to the more widely known Skaggerak strait.  At the opposite - Thy - end of the island is a village called Agger which you can see at the very top of the map [L]. Before 1825 the sandy spit to the South of the village was known as the Agger Tange (isthmus) because Agger (and by extension, the rest of Vendsyssel-Thy) was connected thereby to mainland Europe.  On the 3rd February that year a crashing storm burst through the dunes to create the Thyborøn Kanal which is the start of a long meandering waterway - only 300m wide in places - that now separates island from mainland. Expect more such stories as things hot up on planet Earth.

Sunday, 7 March 2021

Mar Sun day 021 bit

It's another best Sunday of the Month

Irish State Bird Answer

Sunday, 22 November 2020

sun 2o2 Nov

Bits n bobs 

HELP . . . a microplastics study . . . take you ten mins . . . no special expertise required: 
Questionnaire.